2015-Italy – Bergamo

P1020379The last stop on this trip was Bergamo – it is by the airport where Ryanair flies. And it is by the snowy Alps that make a super beautiful background! But, this time we came to Bergamo in rain and the day we spent there was very misty and rainy, not so good for pictures. But first of allᅡᅠ -the trip to Bergamo was not easy. WE went to Florence train station, they sold us tickets for the cheaper trains we used all the time -you find their schedules on www.trenitalia.com or www/seat61.com/Italy.htm -and expected it to be as usual – came to Bologna. got into the station to wait for another train to Milan and then to Bergamo. No way…Lots of people waiting, their necks stretched towards the information boards which say nothing-ᅡᅠ yes, they say there is a train, but what time it is supposed to come? Nobody knew. at last we found information booth, which is not so evident there, Italy tries to sell tickets and provide information in automats. And we found out that our train company is on strike…So what did we do -we had to buy new tickets in the fast train that took us to some other station, but not Milan, then luckily got a train to Bergamo directly – oh. what a luck that was! Because our hosts in Bergamo were meeting us in the station, so we managed to call them about our schedule change and oh how wonderful it was to be taken by car to the apartment! it was like heaven! We found the apartment as all of them through internet and it is called Cosy Apartment in the City center, Maria Luiza Ponzoni is renting it, 39-3473822666, it is in via Sant Alessandro 82 – in a narrow medieval street in front of a monastery, a very cozy and comfortable apartment, I highly recommend it. Close to a food store, to a good pizza place, and on the way to the upper part of the city. We had to enter through those doors!:P1020389P1020360P1020365P1020372And once we entered the upper city – Citia Alta through those gates of Porta S. Giacomo – we again got into medieval narrowᅡᅠ streets, fun! And so we walked as usual, checked the very old and newer churches. Here is a sample of a fresco in a very old church standing side by side with some newer ones in one cluster, by one square:P1020400 P1020405 P1020414 P1020416 P1020468This basilica that you see on top, came out to be the most impressive church to me on this trip…Well, maybe Santa Croce was equally impressive. Everything was impressive there-ᅡᅠ the tapestries on the walls all over – never saw them in churches! The old fresco of the Last Supper, the paintings in the altars, the elaborate wooden mosaics under the main altar fence, the confessionals, the doors, the Donizetti’s grave as well as other noble people’s graves, everything:P1020424 P1020427 P1020430 P1020431 P1020447 P1020448 P1020452 P1020457Again – we walked and walked through nice squares and narrow streets:P1020473 P1020475 P1020483 IMG_1566 IMG_1535Here is how they decorate the window of a store where they sell hair flowers :-)…

My poor Father – we dragged him up the hill so high up to the Castle. There is a funicular, but it was not working that day, so we walked on a cobbled street and it was not easy, but the views were breathtaking. If only the weather would have been a little sunnier:IMG_1543 P1020487 P1020492 P1020497 P1020508 P1020521 IMG_1557And then we went back, my family rested and I still wanted to see the downtown – so here are some pics in twilight:P1020525 P1020526 P1020535 P1020536Here is a monument to their famous sonᅡᅠ -Gaetano Donizetti!

Here is Bergamo view from the train station – it was on the day we flew into it, it was sunny – quite a difference!P1010144

All in allᅡᅠ -Italy is a fantastic country, just amazing on each step. Their creativity is endless. Things and places to see are endless. How much time a person can spend there and how much energy one should have to consume so much art and beauty…

2015-Italy – A hike around Florence

To rest our imaginations more from the concentrated art that Florence is, we took a train in the morning andᅡᅠ half hour and 3.4e later got out in Pontassieve, a small town by the river. How did we figure that out – in the internet there is a 100mi ring around Florence for those who want to hike in countryside and be close to Florence. The ring is divided into day hike size segments and each end of the hike has some sort of transportation – a train or a bus. From the station we walked through the town, crossed the bridge and dived into pastoral views with a big working monastery being the first object on our way:DSCF1779 DSCF1783 DSCF1786 DSCF1789The slopes were mostly olive groves, very pleasant in this sunny weather! Up and up the hills that seemed never to end. We expected to meet more old Gothic churches. based on the description – but saw only one:DSCF1798 DSCF1803 DSCF1804 DSCF1810The forests that our path cut through were very pleasant, even exotic. There were even some flowers blooming in this early spring.ᅡᅠ DSCF1813 DSCF1814We have a dream some day to walk the Pilgrimage path to Santjago de Compostela. Right now we can’t have a vacation in warm seasons, so we did this as a trial. By the way – he path was also marked on trees, not with a shell, but with something like a Polish flag :-):DSCF1819And there was no summit-ᅡᅠ we walked and walked, and as we reached as if one summit-ᅡᅠ there was another in the horizon. Then the path disappeared and if it was not for Andrei’s GPS in the phone-ᅡᅠ we could have been lost. There were some houses, more like mansions behind big walls and angry dogs in the yards, so how could we ask anyone about the path? Bet the GPS was our showing star and here we went. The forest floors were very dug up -we wondered why? Soon the mystery was solved – there was a man with two medium dogs digging something in the forest close to the road – guess what? Tartiuffo! Or a truffle! I asked him to show me the valued mushroom, so here it is:IMG_1149Yes, it had a specific good smell, but nothing out of this world…Our Lithuanian Borelia mushrooms smell stronger and more pleasant to my nose, sorry Italians or the ones who like to pay for truffles :-). To each his own. And so we continued the trip which already started to seem to me endless…DSCF1830 DSCF1832 DSCF1837 DSCF1841 DSCF1843There was somewhere a monastery on the way worth visiting. but we would have had to go to the side and climb another mountain, and that seemed too much even for my enthusiastic nature…So we went down on a rather steep slope and landed directly into a regular road where buses go by a town In Colino San Donato. The stop was conveniently there and we returned to Firenze. While waiting for the bus I noticed peculiar blue flowers, like little bells spotting a meadow below:DSCF1873 DSCF1868All in all we walked 13.2 km only…in 4h 20 min and felt very tired…But who knows – maybe we walked more, hard to trust those measuring devices or literature :-). So -ᅡᅠ we are still not prepared enough for Camino de Santjago.

 

2015-Italy – Florence-2

To make a little break in walking through city and galleries, we took a #7 bus from St. Marcus square where this statue stands to Fiesole:P1020075It is a nice half hour ride up one of the hills that surround Florence. A suburb. The bus stops in an attractive square with two men on horses shaking hands, and the path goes up the hill in a narrow street to the viewpoints towards Firenze:P1020086 P1020079 P1020092 P1020087 P1020099 P1020106 P1020109 P1020111It is a very good place to hike and rest your head from too much art :-)! If we had time – we could have hiked more towards the countryside. also – to a monastery on the other side of town – but as usual – we have too many plans.

There will be more in this post in several days.

2015-Italy – Florence

It took us 1h 40 min by train (9.05e) to get to Florence from Bologna (with changing trains in Pratte). We rented an apartment 10 min from the station, right in the middle of that Egyptian or whatever leather goods street market in front of the big covered Market Hall, several steps from San Lorenzo church. The apartment was a little strange/ it was on the top floor – maybe that was 5th, you enter a little corridor and there is a sofa bed there and a very small kitchen in a nook. Then you climb very steep and narrow stairs and find yourself in a spacious bedroom and the bathroom is also there. So for a person who sleeps downstairsᅡᅠ -it is not very comfortable. But – we managed. the views form the bedroom are outstanding – all the roofs and the domes of two churches, the Duomo including! The adress is Via dell Ariento 7, 39-3473822666, matraina@gmail.com. And immediately went for a walk towards Duomoᅡᅠ -the cathedral:P1010857The Baptistery is under restoration, meaning under cloths, so just the famous doors:P1010860

Duomo is beyond impressive – you can stand in the crowd and look and look at it…P1010864 P1010883 P1010888 P1010894And we walked and walked – the streets are very narrow for the height of buildings by them – so it is not such a very pleasant walk for us, country people at first. But once you get to plazza – a square – there is usually a ‘wow’ sound you want to shout:P1010913 P1010902 P1010873 P1010936 P1010932Lots of buildings in Florence have that specific yellow colors that creates a poetic atmosphere. Nice! So we admired lots of buildings crunching our heads, ate some famous ice cream and famous, but not tasty spaghetti, and reached Santa Croche Church with a statue for Dante in front of it:P1010925 P1010896 P1010911Here is the Uffici gallery: P1010914 P1010931This blog post will be extended soon 🙂

 

 

2015-Italy – Ferrara

Ferrara isᅡᅠ half hour away by trainᅡᅠ from Bologna (4.60e) – how could I not see it…especially while I came across a booklet about it in the Padova loft. I didn’t expect so much/ but I think I liked it most of all those cities we saw so far. Who would have known :-). It was even not on our travel plans. Though I have to say I noticed in some book a mention of it as a cradle of Renaissance. This time the train station was pretty far from downtown (20 min walk), but I walked nevertheless. No time to look for buses.ᅡᅠ The street was very wide like Champs D’Elysee up to Castello Estense:P1010587 It is open till 6pm, so I rushed through the center of downtown, through the cathedral:P1010588 P1010593

P1010632 P1010599 P1010602directly to the Medieval quarter. The best part – no cars there! only bicycles. And very few people, no tourists, just some locals, some kids when classes finished. And some 2 or three photographers in Via Delle Volteᅡᅠ -so I also followed their example and took many pictures in it, was hard to pick only four:P1010609 P1010611 P1010617 P1010618 From there, through Ghetto to the Renaissance part! There is an abundance of palaces and mansions, also parks, so having several hours was far from enough…Ferrara has to be destination in itself. There are even little towns in the surrounding area, so yes, a destination for the next trip, no less than fro 3-5 days there. the only palace that was not closed at that time and was the most peculiar to me was Palazzo Schifanoia. ir is not in the very center, but still within the ols city walls, and the walk is marvelous. It is really one of the most precious art treasures in the city. Its name., Schifanoia, derives from its original function: loathing boredom and sending away tedium. One big hall is Salone Dei Mesi – 12 months painted on the walls. Boy, those artists who painted – were really not bored…It s a triumph of imagination. So many details, so colorful, so perfectly painted. Sad, but only 6 months are left, the others are destroyed…Here is at least one glimpse of them – I guess it is Torres:P1010660 P1010659The best partᅡᅠ -I was alone there! peace and quiet. Here is the ceiling of the other hall- Salla Delle Virtu -where all christian virtues are represented. It has a splendid golden, painted coffered ceiling:P1010669There is also a museum of Ancient Art, but after seeing those two halls how much more beauty can one consume…From there I walked the main street- “Corso” towards the other part of the city Corso is impressive, as usually Corso’s are in Italy. There is a Diamond palace on the way – it houses art collection, but closed early. Some more churches and palaces on the way:P1010674 P1010678

P1010718 P1010684and I came up to a very big cemeteryᅡᅠ – Cimitero Della Certosaᅡᅠ -so big, it takes the whole corner of the wall enclosed city…it has a beautifulᅡᅠ church-chapel and columbarium ansamble:P1010703 P1010700 P1010689 P1010697 P1010696What a wonderful weather tat was! At last it got warm after windy days in other cities. I didn’t was to go into buildings, but the castle was waiting for me, so what could I do. The first part – believe it or not – from those sunny views I got into dungeons…terrible, terrible, especially for my tall body:P1010743 P1010751Then up the stairs – and the views of the castle and mote, then an endless walk through frescoed hall. So many frescoes, especially on ceilings, so that there were big mirrors installed not to break ones neck :-). Visitors can see the ceilings reflected in the mirrors. Most of the frescoes were in repair, so had bandages on them:P1010785

Here you can see little tiny faces incorporated in the ceiling decor; each square is different, amazing…P1010788 P1010841There were some painting exhibits. One of them was Giuseppe Boldini’sᅡᅠ -who is so good in painting beautiful women and their ddressesᅡᅠ -loved it! Here is one sample:P1010816A last glimpse to the castle then a short visit to the peculiar oval entrance area of Teatro Comunale – and I had to rush back to Bologna.P1010734 P1010730 P1010724Ferrara is to be visited for a longer time!

 

 

2015-Italy – Bologna

Bologna is a comfortably shortᅡᅠ train ride from Padova. Once you get from the station – you walk by some ruins, some square and get the the downtown -which is narrow streets and all covered walks – maybe they have too much sun or rain that they built all those covered walks, or maybe in that way they can have more living space upstairs.ᅡᅠ But it looks somehow different than we are used to:P1010530 P1010551 P1010579The door under the columns to the right -is where we lived – in a very nice one bedroom apartment. It was called Falegnani Suites, Via de Falegnani 16, 3922-646471. The owner was very friendly, she met us in the apartment and we had anything we needed there. The sad partᅡᅠ -we stayed only 2 nights, the apartment was too nice for such a short stay. But it was enough for us to walk around two evenings and one morning.ᅡᅠ The oldest University in Europe was the main point of interest:P1010539 P1010542 P1010544 P1010545And what the students paint nowadays on the walls of one of departments: P1010580Bologna is distinguished not only by the abundance of columns,ᅡᅠ but also by the two big towers, which are so tall that are hard to get into picture. Also – one of them is leaning:IMG_0966 P1010570 P1010572 P1010854Here are some nice squares we wandered through:IMG_0974 P1010556 P1010558

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and especially with my father the second eve – when he joined us later in order to make his last trip to his beloved Florence. Bologna was the place we met and continued the journey from there:P1010850 P1010851

2015-Italy – Venezia

25min in a train from Padova – and you are in Santa Lucia station in Venice, with the Grand canal and fancy palaces all here in front of you! I guess Venice is super beautiful for everyone and everyone has to find his own connection with it. As usual – we walked a lot, entered most of the churches that we came upon on our way, tried to listen to Rick Steve’s advice to get lost in the far ends of Venice in order to avoid crowds which were still thick, but I didn’t find that special feeling of “aw” I was expecting. It is amazing, no doubt, but not my thing…Too much beauty, too tramped by tourists, and no good energy… Maybe it was too sunny, too bright :-). Maybe – too crowded and too commercialized. But – everyone wants a piece of it, so you get what you get, and it really looks perfect in pictures. I would say – it is a photographer’s paradise! So I am placing some well known views of Venice, but also some back streets where we were alone or almost alone. Here is the new modern bridge close to train station:IMG_0690 IMG_0702 IMG_0745 IMG_0779First of all we headed towards St. Marcus square – and that is where the crowds are. Here are some fashions I noticed:P1010332And a very unusual for Venice square with red benches:P1010328In St. Marcus square I stood in a bigᅡᅠ line to get to the church, which is marvelous, very byzantine, very golden mosaics:P1010335 P1010340 P1010345But then we didn’t go to the Dodge Palace – not enough time and not enough space in our ‘impression boxes” to see all those riches and beauties. The city was beautiful enough. So we went towards “the tail” – travel books consider that Venice is in the shape of a fish – so they tell you of places whether they are in the tail side or head side, etc. And over there the promenade by the sea was almost empty, what a joy!:IMG_0824 P1010359 P1010361 P1010362 P1010367 P1010377Notice – no cars! That makes it an artist’s and photographer’s paradise!IMG_0867 P1010316

IMG_0716 P1010369 P1010384 P1010388This is the Arsenal.

P1010394Then we returned towards the docks and looked if we can take a boat to San Giorgio Magiore basilica, which is built by Palladio, but there was no time for that trip, so we admired it from a distance:IMG_0871 P1010400 P1010421When the sun was setting – the view was outstanding! Maybe it is normal for Italy to have such crystal clear skies in March, good.

While wandering in the maize of the streets we saw some strange things, like the Communist party headquarters:IMG_0827And some little exquisite stores like this:P1010407But a day is too short…On the way back we crossed Academia bride and saw the last rays of sun hitting Santa Maria del Salute:P1010410IMG_0900

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P1010414And that was it, we were heading towards the train station… P1010428 P1010434 IMG_0905Was it easy to not get lost – well, we used the GPS in the phone. Without that you would need more than one day to see this much of Venice. Of course. we saw very little. we didn’t enter any museums, of which there are plenty, any palaces, some of which have exhibits and are open to public. Too much for a day…

 

 

 

 

 

 

2015-Italy – Padova

From Vicenza we took a train to Padova – 20 min trip only! 4.05e. Here we stayed at an apartment right by the train stationᅡᅠ – it was called Loft Padova: a.viviani@archiworld.it, phone 39-3472-98812. This was a separate loft with a kitchen, bedroom and a sitting room, and also -with a lot of books! Art books, architecture books. Eloisa and Andrea run it and Andrea has his studio right by – so it is comfortable to come and not have him drive to let us into. I highly recommend to stay there! While it is not right in the center of the city and you can hear train doors closing and opening , but the apartment is very spacious, very pleasantly designed and decorated. We felt very comfortable. And the center is very close by foot. The reason we wanted to stay by the train station- we planned to go to Venice for a day from there. It was convenient. So the same evening we went for a walk, through the narrow streets of ghetto towards the biggest jewel of Padova – Basilica of St.Anthony:ᅡᅠ IMG_0680P1010295

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Creative Italians make such graffiti on the walls:IMG_0685

All the stores by that street had freshly brought mimosas:P1010293

Again St.Anthony’s Basilica -a little later when the sun started to go down – the church turned into a flaming masterpiece of architecture. it very much reminded me of our mountains in Zion NP in Utah – the setting sun paints them in the same colors every evening for a very short time-ᅡᅠ some 5-10 min.:P1010304IMG_0673St.Anthony’s basilica holds the grave of St. Anthony. It is a big pilgrimage site and all visitors try to touch the grave and ask St. Anthony for favors. I did, too. While walking by the white marble grave you see at least some 8 extraordinary reliefs on marble with the scenes of St. Anthony performing his miracles. Here is one of them – I liked the peculiar face of one or major characters of the scene:P1010465Padova is known for its second to the oldest University in Europe. At those times several liberal professors and students split from the University of Bologna and came here to establish a new and liberal educational facility in 1222! Galileo Galileo was the most prominent professor there. The first Anatomy Theater was built there in 1594 with a way to hide a dead body very fast in case the Inquisition was coming to check. but we didn’t visit the theater this time. neither the Aula Magna, just the corridors and the inner yards and one of the aulas. Students graduate in the university every day.ᅡᅠ Traditionally they wear a wreath and are very happy surrounded with their happy families and friends, their pictures being taken:IMG_0925 IMG_0930 IMG_0936Their friends prepare for them some text, hopefully funny with pictures and caricatures – and the celebrated graduate has to read the texts loud and clearᅡᅠ -fro everybody’s enjoyment. It is a pity not ours, we didn’t understand…IMG_0945

Across the street from the main university building is a very famous Cafe Pedrocchi built in 1831. Famous meeting place for scholars, it was a scene of student uprising in 1848. Now – a fancy restaurant in two of its rooms and a more regular down to earth cafe in one of them. Each of the three rooms are decorated in one of Italian flag colors:P1010439 IMG_0918 IMG_0914Else – I visited the very good art collection the Eremitani Town museum,ᅡᅠ which is by an ancient Roman amphitheater. There in the park there is also a very famous Capella degli Scrovegni – all painted by Giotto in 1303-05. They try to preserve the frescoes and let in only a very limited number of people, and they do it in groups, so I was lucky that the tourist season hadn’t kicked in yet. The line was not too long. And it is very worth seeing the chapel. But no pictures were allowed, so be it. The magnolias were already starting to bloom:P1010449

Besides other ruins left by ancient Romans there is their Forum, which is now turned into a very spacious park with fountains and an abundance of sculptures:P1010469 IMG_0957 P1010471The central part of downtown has three joining squares, here is one of them:P1010441The cathedral doesn’t not look very big or impressive, but it has very outstanding frescoes in the Baptistery on the right:P1010456And again another view of St. Anthony’s in the morning and at night:P1010463 P1010472And again – they were burying their nobility by the main street – just in the air – a very strange custom 🙂IMG_0938

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2015-Italy – Villas

Vicenza is also known for the elaborate villas that are built in the vicinity. It would take several days and a car to visit more of them. But we went up the hill to the South of the city and were rewarded not only with two villa sights but also a very fancy and maybe a very sacred churchᅡᅠ -Santuario di Monte Berico (St. Mary is believed to have appeared there twice in 1428 after the city was stricken with plague), so we climbed the hill on some important pilgrimage path:IMG_0595 IMG_0601 IMG_0607

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The Santuario has a museum – and to our astonishment – there are guns in that museum…Church and guns together…They can be seen on the far wall of the the gallery walk.P1010288

The covered loggias – I guess it is for the pilgrims not to get wet during rain and also to create jobs for people while they were built. There are also frescoes in each stop between a flight:P1010274Then we turned to a path or street that was like carved into stone or more likely – built with very high walls from both sides -so no views…Just a romantic walk in old walls:IMG_0626Here we see the very famous Villa that would be interesting especially for Americans – it is called La Rotonda and president Jefferson has built his summer house exactly based on Palladio’s architecture of this villa! And exact twin. It is called Monticello in the US, located not far from Washington D.C.ᅡᅠ This time La Rotonda was closed so Andrei took a picture through the gate :-).ᅡᅠ Meanwhile I visited Villa Valmarana Ai Nani – in translation – The Gnomes villa – because there is a story that at some point gnomes were guarding it. If I am wrong in my memory – go and check 🙂 !

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10e and you can see the fresco-ed walls of this small villa.ᅡᅠ Freascoes are by Tiepolloᅡᅠ -amazing artist…Good they let you take pictures. I took also a couple in the rooms that were not so valuable, but funny in their own historic way:IMG_0637 IMG_0638 IMG_0639

So imagine how rich Italians lived – all the walls painted in frescoes, all…I guess they had a lot of time to look and look around. Visiting Villas is a way to see the surrounding landscape. As I said – the street is all enclosed by walls, so only by entering a villa garden one can see the views:P1010275

While walking we noticed a helicopter flying and landing in one of the gated houses…I suppose rich people still live there and they are afraid: IMG_0644 P1010287

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IMG_0641And we never felt any danger…maybe our feeling are not sharp enough…Or maybe they are on the habit of enforcing their homes and gardens since Roman or Barbarian times, maybe it is a useful habit to keep.

 

 

 

 

 

 

2015-Italy – Vicenza

A day and an evening in Verona and on we went – a short train ride to Vicenza – so praised by Rick Steves! Yes, it is a pilgrimage city for architects, I agree with him.ᅡᅠ Vicenza is created by architect Palladio, so it has a very uniform and harmonious look. Lots of beauty, lots. Several museums, but we managed to visit only one. We spent only one night there, so we saw the city in the evening glow and got the impression, but definitely have to come again. We slept in Michelle’s apartment in a convenient location going from the train station to the center. The room was on a very high floor – so the city and the surrounding hills were a fantastic view! It was called on the internet: B&B Venere House, Viale Milano 37, 39338-5653600. The apartment was very large, you couldn’t feel that someone else lived there, the hostess served us breakfast, she spoke English and gave us some advises of what to see.ᅡᅠ So I highly recommend to stay there. The house is seen on the right, the second tallest house:P1010271

And here is what we saw that afternoon and the eve. You enter downtown though this gate:IMG_0483
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P1010198This is Park Querini:P1010212 P1010220 P1010222IMG_0531

There are a couple of parks on both sides of the center, there is a river loop, everything that makes a nice city!P1010224Palladio museum and the interesting ceiling fresco:P1010227

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P1010229 Piazza Erbeᅡᅠ with the most impressive buildings.P1010230 P1010234 P1010237P1010241 P1010242 P1010246Piazza Signori:P1010249

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Duomo:P1010258

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There are two baby heads in front of art museum in Piazza Matteotti. Across the street there is this very famous Olimpic Theater, which we haven’t seen yet. P1010261P1010263

Teatro Olimpico is in this building:IMG_0516 IMG_0511 And the peculiar chairs in one of the cafes. I wonder – does one feel like sitting in someone’s lap or like being the lap :-).