Guanajuato is about 70-80 km away from San Miguel. There are two ways of driving. the longer passes by a town where Mexican revolution started. but this time we didn’t visit it. The road goes up and to tell the truth – it was a scary drive, to many time you have to drive on a very steep edge. But you enter Guanajuato via a perfect side, close to downtown, plenty of spaces to park on the streets. Still I preferred the not so beautiful drive back because it was shorter and not high up on the ridges. This time we didn’t sleep in G., just walked around and came back home to “Life Path”. We wanted to compare both of those magic towns. but it is hard to compare. i thing Guanajuato has more museums, both of them are perfectly colorful and beautiful. G. has more culture expressed on the streets, I would say – much more. But it is amid some hills, an old mining town and not so convenient once you decide to drive out. It is also significantly dirtier. Whereas San Miguel is very clean. The world knows Guanajuato mainly because of its exhumed poor people’s bodies, turned into mummies and placed in a museum, some 110 of them. We don’t enjoy such things, I think it is ridiculous to expose them for peculiar viewing. Only because they were poor and could not pay for their grave site. But there are really good museums, including the birth house of their beloved son Diego Riviera, so we visited this one. Sad as it is – I almost forgot everything I saw there last time, 4 years ago. This time they had an exhibit of some artist, whose name I didn’t write down – he has a peculiar way of creating art:
Author: impressions
Mexico 2018, San Miguel de Allende
It took us several hours to reach San Miguel by car from El Geiser. On the map you see a highway on the East side of Queretaro, you are driving from there and you plan to join it and proceed North. No way…it is a toll road and it is tricky to find a place to get on it. You have to do more research how to get there, which takes time and attention. We ended up driving through the whole million people town of Queretaro and getting onto a highway on the West side of it. It was additional stress and more time on the roads. Then in San Miguel it is not so simple to get on the right road while doing a number of roundabouts. We got lots once even with a GPS. So be careful and very attentive while driving there. We stayed in the very center. That also added the chill of driving on their cobbled streets. We picked a place to stay on a pedestrian street, which meant low noise level. The place is called Life Path -so we assumed there will be people who speak English. they are considered a rehabilitation place and so silence is required. That is what we need! Forget it- nobody speaks a word of English there and silence is required only during the day time while gringo’s (American expatriates) are doing yoga in a nice hall there or if they are meditating, but after they leave- I do not say that it is a party place, but it seemed to me that it was an overnight place for guests to sleep after participating in some party or wedding in this city. Which meant they would come late at night and walk in the room endlessly on stilettos. Happy people. Everything else in “Life Path” was perfect! I even had one class of yoga -meditation, it was good! Highly recommend! And yes, yoga was taught in English.
Mexico 2018, Bernal and El Geiser
We rented a car for a week in some hotel on the edges of downtown in Queretaro. And drove towards Bernal. Locals say it takes half an hour. They are wrong. Maybe it would if they don’t close the important exit on a highway and you have to drive far away, turn around and so on and so forth. The other unpleasant feature on Mexican roads in smaller towns but sometimes even on highways are the Topas, or ‘lying policemen’. I think it shows how Mexicans like to not obey the speed limits so they are forced to, or maybe it is to make sure people do not drive fast where there is a lot life close by a road. Whatever they are for- I hate them…It causes stress on a car and on us inside. Luckily there is pretty good highway that leads to Bernal once you get on it through the maze of Queretaro roads. And there is a couple of seafood restaurants right by the highway – they are called Mariscos. Everything is tasty there, but Sopa (soup) mariscos – wow!
Mexico 2018, Queretaro
We took a bus from Mexico city to Queretaro, some 200 km, $15 pp, it was perfect. No stress driving, just looking , enjoying the views. The bus was the most comfortable I ever sat in, we also got sandwiches and water there. There in the bus stations once you get out you go to a Taxi kiosk, any of them, and buy a ticket. Then find the line where taxis come and wait to be seated in a cab by a uniformed worker. And then settle and dive into the hustle and bustle of the downtown on Queretaro. We have been there 4 years ago, and now it was so nice to walk the same streets and enjoy the places we remember. And the places that have changed towards better. We again stayed in the center, with a good street view but also the street noise. Else. the room in an old fashioned apartment was perfect.
Mexico 2018, Mexico city
It took us some time to plan this trip. Only a 12 day trip. This is a disadvantage of traveling not with an organized group. But it is an advantage of freedom to stay where we want and to see what we want. After 4 years of not visiting the Mexican colonial heartland- we started to miss it. Mostly the abundance of architecture and arts. So – our first two days in Mexico City. Starting from December 6th. I am not counting the previous day because it was only traveling and reaching the capital of Mexico in the dark, reaching our apartment by taxi, which is the best and inexpensive way of transportation in Mexico. This time we found an apartment through Air B&B in the skyscraper district, near Paseo Dela Reforma. The two room apartment was considered to be a quiet one, it was not facing the street, and it was spacious enough, but…it was noisy from the top for part of the night. Hard to find peace and quiet in Mexico. Funny, they decorated the apartment with London images:
The 12th of December is when St. Mary the Mother of Christ appeared there to a Shepard boy. Long ago. So they built a complex of churches, old and new in front of a huge plaza with a miraculous hill behind them. Why miraculous- the water is running from all sides of it making it a hill with ponds and parks.
We visited all churches, there is a few, then the museum at the back of the main church. It is very worth visiting. The paintings and the rooms for high priests are fancy and impressive, of course, but the best part were the exVotos- the gallery of little primitive paintings reflecting illnesses, accidents and events that people brought to churches to be prayed for. The paintings are exquisite. So much sincerity in them with a big dose of pain.
The funny thing- such a big space there in the whole compound that even the bus runs around it so you can pick which stop is better to get out, but no places to eat…Well, maybe you can in the market close by or more exactly – down by. But we ate much further on the street, they have taco stands and even little mobile kitchens and cook a big variety of meals there. This reminded us of Thailand. Tables for customers had bouquets of spicy greens for your taste. That day we still visited the Palace of Bellas Artes, but not the museum there. With my recovering broken leg it was already too much to climb the stairs and for our minds to consume a lot of art. The building is beautiful by itself. Last time we saw the collection. This time we saved energy for a museum of design we haven’t seen before- Museo Franz Mayer. Lots of religious artifacts there, lots of golden devices that are used in Catholic services. And also some modern design pieces. But to tell the truth – I forgot all about it. Such things do not stay in the memory. An overload. The more impressive thing was a big old monastery yard with an extensive collection of theater posters on all walls. Mexico has very creative artists…
The next day started with a visit to Soumaya museum in Polenco, some 40 min. Uber taxi away from where we stayed. A Mexican millionaire Carlos Slim, a telecommunications mogul who was considered the richest man in the world by Forbes in 2013 – became not the richest after he built and opened the museum (that is my joke, I have no clue of his riches relative to others). But unlike another rich man in the US – he named the building not in his name but in his wife’s who he said taught him about arts and sculpture. To emphasize his modesty -I found out his name only after we came home and looked on the internet which I highly suggest for you to look into – there is so much to see in the museum that one visit is too overwhelming and too much. The architect Fernando Romero is definitely influenced by Frank Gehry, but to me – this is a more minimalist building than Gehry’s are and it is a jewel!
Zion NP after St. Patrick’s 2018
Maybe that was the first beautiful snow this winter, on the 18th of March! Nice. But having in mind that the East Coast already got 4 big snow storms this March – we were in a much safer position. Just a little powder in Rockville, but some more in Zion. So we drove to Zion to take some pictures of this rare occasion. Here I am inviting you to dive into the not so often happening views of Zion NP, mainly close to the Court of Patriarchs:
As you can see the snow was already wet and not much of it. So we rushed: Wild turkeys-ï¿‚ï¾ it has special feathers hanging from his breast, so it is a male, but still not fully grown up one: And some more with the Angel’s Landing in the distance:
Costa Rica 2018-San Jose again
Since we haven’t seen almost any anticipated wildlife I decided to support the Zoo of San Jose- that is what most people write on trip advisor-ï¿‚ï¾ please, support the zoo by visiting it. OK, we visited it. It was hard to find. we had even to stop and ask where is the entrance-ï¿‚ï¾ you see where it is but where to enter? It is in a canyon by a mountain river in the middle of the city! Andrei drove like a hero through the very center of San Jose which is not recommended in any travel book. The area where the Zoo is is considered not too safe – but I considered it safe and of exceptionally beautiful mostly colonial houses! Which I saw only from car windows, for we had no time to walk around there. So the Zoo…it is small, it is very lonely. no visitors at all, it would be not bad if not for the small ant dense cages for owls and parrots and toucans…I was especially sorry for the toucans-ï¿‚ï¾ they were each alone in a cage. The parrots-ï¿‚ï¾ not so much,ï¿‚ï¾ they had company, at least.ï¿‚ï¾ Monkeys seemed very sad, and there were only 5 of them. But the worst part – they let you in a lion’s cage, the lion died a while ago of depression…So you can experience what he saw and how he lived all his life. Now a leopard is not doing well, I was shocked to see blood dripping from its mouth and the smell of that blood was all over. It gets into my nose once I remember this poor miserable leopard: A tapir – that was the most interesting creature in the Zoo – he is like a mix of an elephant and a black pig: In case yo get interested-ï¿‚ï¾ here the the entrance to the Zoo: This is the portico of the National theater – a proof Andrei drove through the main street of San Jose and I took the pic form the car window: Here are some more views in San Jose while we walked from the University area where we stayed the last night, the graffiti was wonderful there! A fruit stand. The peculiar fruits here are theï¿‚ï¾ yellow-orange ones. they are the fruits with a little tail – and guess what is in that tail – a cashew nut! How many fruits have to be grown to have an handful of cashews…Here is Casada-ï¿‚ï¾ their traditional meal, like a menu dia in Spain. You can choose only the meat or fish or some seafood. But the rest of the plate comes like this and it costs around $5-$8: So – that was it, enough of good climate and warmth, back to our never ending house works…
Costa Rica 2018-Pacific Coast-Jaco
We reached Jaco also close to sunset. CR is so close to equator, that the sun rises at 6 pm and sets at 6pm. Our hosts form Samara warned us that Jaco is a the biggest resort town on the Pacific, closest to San Jose and therefore-ï¿‚ï¾ full of prostitutes and drugs. That it is not worth going there. But we went there because of the close proximity to San Jose and because we found a very good aparthotel Tuanis with a wonderful AC’ed room. There was a swimming pool in the yard and some rooms had kitchens. But we took the one without a kitchen to have areal 1 day vacation!It was this close to the sea on a very quiet street, the only sounds we heard were of birds. Well, one evening there were some loud sounds from across the swimming pool from the balcony – American youngsters were smoking pot – which is considered legal, kind of :-). We didn’t investigate thisï¿‚ï¾ in-useful info for us. And those wonderful sunsets on the Pacific! Jaco beach had a lot of surfers-ï¿‚ï¾ the waves here are of the right size! But as I was expecting crowds of peopleï¿‚ï¾ ï¿‚ï¾ -there were none. A little more than in Samara, but never too many. Maybe becasue we came on Sunday evening and were not envious to the cars going back from Jaco to San Jose on the other lane-ï¿‚ï¾ the traffic jam was literally for the whole 30 km from the bigger highway…A lesson can be drawn – never leave Jaco on Sunday.ï¿‚ï¾ There are some higher buildings in Jaco, not so many palm trees as in Samara. but there are a lot of green spaces there. they are fenced, not for people to walk on them – mostly for the cows or for just a small house in the middle of a big park. And we didn’t see any prostitute at all.ï¿‚ï¾ Mostly American and Canadian families with kids or just elderly people. Lots of restaurants, lots of shops. Te whole spectrum of prices. There are also casinos, night clubs. But that is not our world. We were happy to have a spacious and cool room for the heat there is rather humid and not so pleasant. We left in two night there the day before our flight and stopped on the famous Crocodile bridge. And yes, there are unbelievably many crocodiles: There is a trail and a national park by that bridge, but we didn’t have time for a hike.ï¿‚ï¾ Again – from the car window the views were perfect!
Costa Rica 2018 -Pacific coast – Samara
At that point we already felt that we dot have enough to do in Costa Rica for 3 planned weeks. Thinking about how much work we have at home and to idle just in a tropical climate with no particular places of interest was not what we wanted to do. So what we did was we bought new tickets back. To change the ticket date it would have costed us $600 a piece (American Airlines), whereas to buy new ones was $200 a piece. The other thing was to rent a car – we still wanted to see the ocean. The car rental quoted us a price of $127 for those 5 days left. The place was in Liberia – which was not in Liberia, but some 30 km form it in the direction of its airport. Fort of all the rental place called Fox lied to us about their location. Our friends had to drive us back and forth on that road until we found. Maybe everything called Fox is prone to lying… :-). Then when we started filling the papers- the price rose to $400 for 5 days! I considered it ridiculous. the problem stemmed from our initial plans – we didn’t plan to rent a car ourselves, our friends did. So we didn’t research their conditions. Do not make our mistake-ï¿‚ï¾ get a letter form your credit card company telling that they are covering your car insurance on the trip. We had that letter since long ago, carried all over where we traveled-ï¿‚ï¾ never in any country did they need it. Costa Rica is the only one, it is very very bureaucratic, as we noticed, so it requires that letter…And ours was at home, not much help. But as we had no choice, we had to rent. Of those 5 days we drove only 3. Because after we rented it – we immediately drove to the southern part of Samara-ï¿‚ï¾ where we had a reservation for 2 nights in a Sunset B&B right on the beach! While on the road we noticed how this Northwestern part of Costa Rica is dry. The grass was mostly yellow and lots ofï¿‚ï¾ trees without leaves, some of them had flowers: But as we had no time to stopï¿‚ï¾ – I took pictures form the car window. The next one shows their way of making fences – they stick a branch into the soil, evidently during the rainy season – and here you go, it starts even growing! Then they prune their fences:Once we got to the place, which is in Nicoya peninsular – we ran to see the sunset and that wonderful evening glow: Then in the dark already with a flashlight walked 25 min on the beach North to Samara to get to some restaurant fro dinner. Our B&B owners were also cooking dinners, making cocktails if someone wanted-ï¿‚ï¾ but we wanted to get a glimpse of Samara:Those were several restaurants starting on the beach sand and going deeper in a more regular interior. We liked the restaurant “El Gusto” with floors and sofa’s and on some evenings – with live music: Then the walk back, on a super dark beach, lit only by the Milky Way! It wouldn’t be so pleasant if there were more people walking because you could bump on them – but there is very few people in Samara. Most of them stay in town. As we saw plenty of restaurants and souvenir shops there. Our B&B had only three bedrooms, quiet and homey: Very few people on the beach and the water was awesome!ï¿‚ï¾ No wonder some people just go to Costa Rica coast, stay there and fly back home. The waves are of the right size, the water is so warm that even me with my slim body didn’t get cold at all. And you can see a line of rocks in the sea – they are not a coral reef, but solid lava form long ago. When the tide is low – is is fun to walk to them through shallow waters and check for some sea life. Sea urchins: The sun is very strong there-ï¿‚ï¾ definitely wear clothes or SPF: We were lucky that the tide was low at 10 am and at 11 am the next day – it was still not too hot to do the hike. When the tide is low during the midday -ï¿‚ï¾ it would be hard. The heat is hot there :-). The first morning we went to the tide pools-ï¿‚ï¾ we saw three very colorful puffers. Butï¿‚ï¾ we didn’t take the camera, were not sure how deep we would have to walk or swim in the water.ï¿‚ï¾ the next day we took the camera-ï¿‚ï¾ no fish…:-(. On the whole-ï¿‚ï¾ not many wildlife in this country, not much sea life. And the sand is not white. far from it. it has a portion of ashes, I think. because it is hard to wash it. Well – it was better in Samara than in Jaco. That is for sure. And here is Andrei waiting for breakfast:Our B&B hidden in the palm grove: Though the humidity on the peninsular coast is much lower that the southern coasts of Costa Ricaï¿‚ï¾ -it is still very hot. But we could sleep without AC, there is some breeze from the ocean. The second sunset we enjoyed tremendously: there was another adventure in Samara the last morning. I went to swim peacefully in the sea before breakfast – there was a neighbor’s big black dog running around. It didn’t dawn onto me that it can be dangerous. I went into teh waves- the dog behind me and started jumping on my naked skin…scratched it and also scared me to death. So be careful. because the woman owner is very careless and she just laughed when I told her what happened. it was my husband who saved me. Otherwise I don’t know how it would have ended. We still managed to hike to another town more south from Samara – Puerto Carillo, which seemed even better for solitude and rest: And then, bye bye to Samara, we drove for half of the day to Jaco. The roads are not so bad as we presumed. At least we didn’t drive on dirt roads and the paved ones were paved. But they are so narrow, you can’t pass a car is the driver of it decides to do some other activityï¿‚ï¾ in the car than driving and goes to a slow motion…In conclusion – driving in Costa Rica no pleasure at all! So we decided – if we ever come there for the warm sea and the waves of the right size-ï¿‚ï¾ we will take a bus form San Jose.
Costa Rica 2018 – Bijagua
Bijagua ir towards the north of Costa Rica, in between two volcanoes – one of them is called Miravales. But we didn’t see any of them – it is a place of lots of rains. The drive to there was beautiful, through little towns on the northern side of Lake Arenal, then through green landscapes dotted with big trees of impressive forms:The churches in those little towns were mostly of modern type – no old buildings there. This one had a peculiar sign inside-ï¿‚ï¾ to me it was an unusual sign for a church: Those trees are mostly without leaves but they have flowers of some bright color. But we never stopped close to them, so no pics… But we stopped in one nursery still by the lake-ï¿‚ï¾ and enjoyed the colors of their plants: Lots of houses are for sale there, locals said they are in real estate crisis. That does not mean that the houses are cheap – their prices are comparable to USA real estate prices in good areas. In several hours we reached our destinationï¿‚ï¾ -the little town Bijahua and our Air B&B on a mountain there:This house is comfortably built with two bedrooms, a kitchen and a bathroom. the owner Carole was super hospitable! She met us with a big plate of fruit, local eggs, bread, other foods. But the weather didn’t love us there at all. Rains and winds almost constantly.ï¿‚ï¾ The valley with Bijagua town was down below – but we could hardly see it. Low clouds, rain and wind…The owners have a big field and not many trees. So they built a temple: A temple for love, she said. Aren’t all religions for love? This is the view from our porch: This is one of two trees still left and not used for furniture: The plant looked very much like “the thorns of Christ” as we call it. but this one without any thorns! Those looked like impatients, but on tall bushes: The hostess Carole: So why did we go there? it is a good place to start a day’s trip to Rio Negro, where they write you can hire a boat and see a lot of wildlife. But it was too rainy to reach the river-ï¿‚ï¾ the road is a dirt road. And close by, only in some 15 km there is a national park of Volcano Miravales-ï¿‚ï¾ there are trails in that park. As we had to do something even in the rainy day – we went to the park, paid $12 each for the trails and managed to do only the first and shortest one-ï¿‚ï¾ to the waterfall and the blue lagoon. The trail is called Rio Celeste:My face is tense here-ï¿‚ï¾ I was worried to get off the path – the crowds that went there were unbelievable! Like on the busiest day in Zion NP.ï¿‚ï¾ And the rain was pouring…We looked at the lagoon and decided not to go down to it-ï¿‚ï¾ too many people, too much brushing each other.This one is to show how crowded those steps looked like and we had to wait to get Andrei on the stairs alone! So yeï¿‚ï¾ -we did not manage to do the other trails though we had energy for that – they were plain in mud, climbing up among roots, sliding and turning into a mud person. No pictures from trail, teh rain became so strong, it was impossible to take outï¿‚ï¾ our cameras. Here is the only peculiar bird we saw in those two weeks of traveling in the Kingdom of Wildlife:Here we are going towards the Pacific coast – the skies cleared up, because strangeï¿‚ï¾ as it is-ï¿‚ï¾ there is not a drop of rain there on the Northern coast for 6 months of what we call our winter and they call summer. But then the next months the monsoons are huge! Whereas deeper inland among the volcanoesï¿‚ï¾ ï¿‚ï¾ -it is raining always.